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Title: Essential oils used in dermocosmetics: Review about its biological activities

Journal Article · · Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14652 · OSTI ID:1843632
 [1];  [2];  [3]; ORCiD logo [4]
  1. Research Unit for Inland Development (UDI) Polytechnic Institute of Guarda Guarda Portugal
  2. Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa) Faculty of Pharmacy University of Lisboa Lisboa Portugal
  3. Research Unit for Inland Development (UDI) Polytechnic Institute of Guarda Guarda Portugal, CICS‐UBI – Health Sciences Research Centre University of Beira Interior Covilhã Portugal
  4. Research Unit for Inland Development (UDI) Polytechnic Institute of Guarda Guarda Portugal, LAQV/REQUIMTE Department of Chemical Sciences Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal

Abstract Introduction Currently, the demand for the use of constituents of natural origin in cosmetic formulations in detriment of synthetic compounds is noticeable. Several studies assess the potential of essential oils when incorporated into various cosmetic formulations and study their biological activities. This work intends to prepare a literature review on essential oils tested in dermocosmetic formulations and whose biological activities were evaluated through in vitro and/or in vivo tests. The main objectives for this study were as follows: to identify the essential oils that have been used in cosmetic formulations; and compile information on the main biological activities tested in cosmetic formulations. Methods A search was carried out until 2021 in the scientific databases PubMed and Web of Science, using different search terms, and several scientific articles from in vitro and in vivo studies in animals and clinical trials were selected and analyzed of involving development dermocosmetic formulations containing essential oils and the analysis of their biological activities. Results These studies demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity (antibacterial and antifungal) is the one most studied, mainly through in vitro tests. In vivo studies were also carried out either in animals or in clinical studies showing different effects, such as repellent action, inhibition of hair growth, and action against migraine. Regarding formulations, it was evident that creams are the most used. Conclusions There is enormous potential for the use of essential oils in future formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, in particular as preservatives, exploring their other biological activities.

Sponsoring Organization:
USDOE
OSTI ID:
1843632
Journal Information:
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Journal Name: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology Journal Issue: 2 Vol. 21; ISSN 1473-2130
Publisher:
Wiley-BlackwellCopyright Statement
Country of Publication:
Country unknown/Code not available
Language:
English

References (34)

The potential application of some novel essential oils as natural cosmetic preservatives in an aqueous cream formulation journal January 2002
Characterization of Portuguese Thymbra capitata , Thymus caespititius and Myrtus communis essential oils in topical formulations journal June 2017
Review of the safety of application of cosmetic products containing parabens journal July 2019
Plants used in cosmetics journal January 2003
Evaluation of the effect of topical chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.) oleogel as pain relief in migraine without aura: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, crossover study journal May 2018
Essential Oils and Herbal Extracts as Antimicrobial Agents in Cosmetic Emulsion journal November 2012
Comparison of Antimicrobial Activity of Essential Oils, Plant Extracts and Methylparaben in Cosmetic Emulsions: 2 Months Study journal February 2014
Antioxidant and wound healing activity of Lavandula aspic L. ointment journal November 2016
Clinical and mycological evaluation of an herbal antifungal formulation in canine Malassezia dermatitis journal September 2014
Curcuma aeruginosa Roxb. essential oil slows hair-growth and lightens skin in axillae; a randomised, double blinded trial journal February 2017
The formulation of the essential oil of Piper aduncum Linnaeus (Piperales: Piperaceae) increases its efficacy as an insect repellent journal November 2016
Treatment of toenail onychomycosis with 2% butenafine and 5% Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil in cream journal April 1999
The formulation of an effective topical antibacterial product containing Ocimum gratissimum leaf essential oil journal March 2002
Essential oil obtained from micropropagated lavender, its effect on HSF cells and application in cosmetic emulsion as a natural protective substance journal August 2017
Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products - a review journal May 2015
Efficiency of Calamintha officinalis essential oil as preservative in two topical product types journal August 2004
Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: a review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy journal February 2009
Safety and efficacy of kunzea oil-containing formulations for the management of psoriasis: a randomized, controlled trial journal August 2015
The science of dermocosmetics and its role in dermatology journal March 2014
A Novel Approach for Development and Characterization of Effective Mosquito Repellent Cream Formulation Containing Citronella Oil journal January 2014
Development, Characterization, and Evaluation of Novel Broad-Spectrum Antimicrobial Topical Formulations from Cymbopogon martini (Roxb.) W. Watson Essential Oil journal September 2018
Microbial Stability of Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Products journal October 2017
Application of essential oils as natural cosmetic preservatives journal December 2013
Microbiologically Contaminated and Over-Preserved Cosmetic Products According Rapex 2008–2014 journal January 2016
Essential Oils and Their Single Compounds in Cosmetics—A Critical Review journal January 2018
Essential Oils’ Chemical Characterization and Investigation of Some Biological Activities: A Critical Review journal September 2016
Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies journal June 2018
Novel Gel Formulations as Topical Carriers for the Essential Oil of Bidens tripartita for the Treatment of Candidiasis journal October 2018
Essential Oils as Antimicrobial Agents—Myth or Real Alternative? journal June 2019
Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals journal January 2021
Effect of Essential Oils on Pathogenic Bacteria journal November 2013
Study on the Stability and Compatibility of the Cosmetic Products with Lavandula angustifolia Oil Kept in PPH Polypropylene Homopolymer Plastic Containers journal March 2019
Effects of Calendula Essential Oil-Based Cream on Biochemical Parameters of Skin of Albino Rats against Ultraviolet B Radiation journal January 2012
The subjective assessment of the effect and satisfaction with dermocosmetics use by patients with skin disturbances journal January 2015

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